As the most northerly city in the United Kingdom, Inverness, Scotland, is renowned for its castles and Jacobite history, and the nearby lake that may or may not be home to an elusive creature affectionately called Nessie.
But for gardeners, there’s a small botanic garden on the banks of the River Ness that includes some equally rich history and castle-like ruins, as well as secret spaces that are much easier to find than a fabled lake monster.
“Lios Luibheach Inbhir Nis.” That’s how you say Inverness Botanic Gardens in Scottish Gaelic. You’ll see signs and brochures in both English and Gaelic but be assured that everyone speaks English.
Garden layout / Bruce Meyer
The garden is small, about four acres, but 150 years ago, that acreage was the walled garden of Bught House, one of those stately great houses that dot Britain’s landscape (think Downton Abbey). The house was demolished in the 1960s, but the brick walls that once defined the gardens remain, creating a lush environment for today’s botanical treasures. Several cedar trees that lined the carriage paths still stand as well.
“The walled garden keeps the heat in. It radiates the sun’s heat and protects everything from the winds,” said Pamela Sutherland, the head gardener. “The walls create an environment similar to what gardeners enjoy 300 miles south of here, allowing us to showcase plants that otherwise would not thrive this far north.”
Alpine hebes are among the tender plants that benefit from the wall’s protection. Perennials in the herbaceous border grow taller without being buffeted by strong northwesterly winds.
The Weather of Inverness
Scotland has a reputation for being a wet, rainy destination. That’s true for the western Highlands that get about 75 inches of rain a year. But Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, is much drier with about 35 inches of rain annually, most of it falling in October through December.
However, as the climate changes, the region is getting drier and warmer, so Sutherland and her team are beginning to remove damp loving plants, such as Ligularia dentata.
Perhaps more significant to unique gardening conditions are the hours of daylight. Summer is a delight with as much as 18 hours of sunshine around the solstice. The agave plants here often bloom on all sides, as opposed to just a southern or western side, typical in much of the western hemisphere.
Inside the Succulent House / Bruce Meyer
The most impressive succulent in the hot house is an Agave parrasana or “cabbage head” agave. It’s about 35 years old, but the flower spike is at least 20 feet tall, scraping the top of the glass.
But more interesting is how plants, most specifically cacti, have adapted to the limited hours of daylight, about six to eight hours a day between November and January.
“We have noticed different flowering times to their native climes,” Pamela said. “Ours flower spring into early summer, whereas these would be flowering much earlier under normal circumstances. They have survived through these low light conditions for more than 30 years now.”
The northerly location and low light levels have created a costly problem for Pamela and her team for which they don’t have a solution.
An inordinate amount of mold grows around the frames of the two glass houses. It pushes the glass until the seal is broken. Leaking water causes damage, especially in the cactus house.
“We have lost some cacti in places where the drip has dampened the soil and rotted the roots,” Pamela said. “The mold acts as a substrate for weeds to grow in on the frame of the glasshouse and their roots are causing further damage.”
The problem is not as serious in the tropical house because most of the plants are shade and moisture loving. Like all of this garden, the Tropical House is small, but makes great use of its space showcasing orchids, birds of paradise and bougainvillea.
Inside the Tropical House / Bruce Meyer
Those who are fascinated by carnivorous plants like the sundew or the Venus flytrap will love this space. The monkey cup, a native of Borneo and Sumatra, is the rarest of the carnivorous plants that thrive in northern Scotland.
Overall, Inverness weather is mild because of the Gulf Stream that brings warm air to the North Atlantic. Despite its northerly location, Inverness is in the 9a Hardiness Zone. Winter temperatures drop into the mid-20 degrees Fahrenheit.
Size Doesn’t Matter
Just because the garden is small doesn’t mean you will not have plenty to enjoy. Perhaps the most photographed area is the arbor covered in white Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda). But Pamela wishes more people would take time to appreciate the handkerchief tree (Davidia involucrate). A native to southern China, you’ll recognize it for its near perfect shape and delicate white handkerchief-like flowers in springtime. The leaves turn a brilliant orange in fall and lovely seed pods appear in winter.
Wildflower Meadow / Bruce Meyer
As you explore, depending on the time of year, take note of the sheep fleece here and there. With nearly seven million sheep in the country, their fleece is used for more than beautiful sweaters. One of the garden’s many volunteers brings fleece from her farm to protect the salvia and tree ferns from the cold. The staff also uses it to cover the compost bays, which helps to keep the heat and moisture in.
Nearly half of the garden space is devoted to a wildflower meadow and a “secret garden” cared for by adults with special needs. The project is called GROW – Garden, Recycle, Organic and Wildlife.
I’ve been looking for inspiration for building a permanent, year-round habitat for insects and I found it here in the wildflower meadow. The bug hotel is a favorite among the GROW participants who gather pine cones, sticks and other natural elements to keep it fresh.
Bug Hotel / Bruce Meyer
Pamela says it has become a popular addition to the garden, particularly with children intrigued by the bug hotel’s inhabitants.
Admission to the Inverness Botanic Gardens is free. Please enjoy lunch or a light refreshment at the café. That and plant sales are the primary sources of income for this small garden.
The River Walk
We enjoyed a pleasant summer evening walking the nearly two-mile Inverness River Walk that leads from the city center to the botanic garden. Cathedral bells rang as we strolled past delicate bougainvillea, fuchsia and other plants that line the paved walkway. Occasionally, I felt the need to pull a weed or two, but don’t we all?
Bridge over the River Ness / Bruce Meyer
Our goal was to reach the Ness Islands, a cluster of small islands in a wide spot of the river easily accessible by iron foot bridges. The islands are covered with ancient Scots pines that hold a special place in Celtic mythology. These trees are said to be portals for fairies, elves and other magical creatures to enter our world. At night, pathways lit with fairy lights and animal-inspired carvings contribute to the otherworldly serenity of the Ness Islands
But we never made it that far. My attention was drawn to the small but meaningful Cavell Gardens. Edith Cavell was a British nurse in Belgium during the German occupation of the First World War. She helped as many as 200 Allied soldiers escape before she was captured and executed.
While named for Cavell, the well-manicured garden honors all those who lost their lives in service to Great Britain during both wars. My grandfather served in World War I and I’m always humbled by the honors given those who gave their last full measure of devotion.
When You Go to Inverness
As you plan your visit to the Highlands, be alert to midge season. A midge is a flying insect similar to a mosquito. Several people mentioned how horrible the midge season can be, but we visited in late June and didn’t experience any discomfort.
If your visit is in April or May, you will be in time to see one of the world’s most impressive daffodil collections in bloom. About 45 minutes east of Inverness is Brodie Castle, home to Scotland’s National Daffodil Collection. Ian Brodie was fascinated by daffodils and while there are more than 400 varieties of the Brodie daffodils, the grounds showcase about 100 varieties as they would have appeared in the 17th century.
Brodie Castle also has guest rooms to extend your stay. Other lodging options with beautiful gardens and a bit closer to Inverness are the Cawdor Castle and Gardens and the Foyers Lodge in Loch Ness.
About nine miles south of Inverness is another garden worthy of a visit. The Abriachan Garden Nursery is one of a dozen or more private gardens that open for the public, raising funds for various national charities.
Note: There is no Uber service in Inverness, but the taxi service is clean, punctual and equally affordable.
Featured image: Inverness Botanic Gardens path / Bruce Meyer
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Diana Lambdin Meyer is an award-winning travel writer from Kansas City, Missouri. She and her husband Bruce, a professional photographer, did not see the Loch Ness Monster when visiting the small village of Loch Ness, although they did enjoy crafts and some hairy coos.
